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PORTRAIT
Rankin is considered one of the greatest photographers in the world and his title is not usurped. Rankin is the transgressive, the avant-garde, with him room for audacity, the man is innovative, and he dares. His photography is imbued with pop culture and exacerbated modernism. John Rankin Waddell is a British fashion, nude and portrait photographer born in 1966 in Glasgow. While studying accounting at Brighton Polytechnic, he realized that his interests lay elsewhere and decided to give up everything to pursue his passion: photography. He therefore enrolled in photography at Barnfield Luton College and then at the London College of Printing. Rankin is the jack of all trades. Photographer, editor and film director, he established his reputation when he launched the cultural magazine Dazed & Confused with his partner Jefferson Hack in 1991. In 1999, this magazine, under the title of Jake Holmes revealed by Led Zeppelin, became a production company , Film & TV Dazed. Two versions will follow, Another Magazine, and Another Man, respectively launched in 2001 and 2005. Rankin has worked with the greatest, Kate Moss, Madonna, David Bowie, Björk, Arnold Schwarzenegger, The Rolling Stones, Vivienne Westwood, Damien Hirst, the Queen Elizabeth II or Tony Blair. He has shot world-renowned advertising campaigns: Nike, L'Oreal, Hugo Boss, Levi's, Madonna for H&M, and Coca-Cola. Versatile, the photographer tried his hand at television, behind the camera. He has done a few television commercials. The duo also made a film, The Lives of Saints, a tragicomic feature film written by Tony Grisoni, screenwriter from Las Vegas Parano, screened in numerous festivals and which notably won the jury prize at the Salento International Festival. , in Italy. They also made some promotional clips for Kelis, Nelly Furtado, Marina and the Diamonds, Robyn Cobrastyle, Sky Ferreira. More recently, in December 2012, Cheryl Cole revealed her collaboration with him for the production of Ghetto Baby clip. In January 2009, BBC 4 broadcast his one-hour documentary, "Seven Photographers", (who changed fashion), in which he pays tribute in images to Cecil Beaton, Erwin Blumenfeld, Richard Avedon, Helmut Newton, Herb Ritts, David Bailey and Guy Bourdin. Agitator and transgressive, he shot the Dove campaign, which exposed women with curves, the antithesis of the skinny models of the usual advertisements. He has also photographed leading charity campaigns for Amnesty International, Everyman, Women's Aid, breast cancer awareness... To become complete, the man went to the other side of the camera and became a character media. He filmed for Germany's Next Topmodel, where he was a guest judge, and works regularly with Britains Next Top Model winner Lianna Fowler. In 2011 Rankin served as a photography teacher on Channel 4 and also presented the BBC documentary America in pictures - The Story of Life Magazine.
EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW
- What influenced you?
Films were my first influence when I was starting out. My family did not really have an artistic streak, however we often went to the cinema with my father and I continue to love cinema. But I remain inspired by many other things and many of people. Damien Hirst inspired me a lot. I think his work provokes such strong reactions and has such a strong emotional impact on the viewer, I have a deep empathy for that. Otherwise there is Caravaggio, Turner, Bernini and Egon Schiele. And there are so many other photographers whose work I admire. Newton, Avedon, Blumenfeld, Nick Knight, Juergen Teller, David Bailey and Sokolsky. They each have a different approach, a unique experimentation technique. I had the chance and the opportunity to collaborate with many talented people and they allowed me to find new ways and to have a new approach to photography. As for the music, I listen to everything, Mozart, Stevie Wonder, Mark Ronson, Doris Day, Frank Sinatra, The Who, it's a mix of everything and I like that.
- What do you appreciate in women, as a photographer?
Well, where to start? Probably everything. I am a man of “eyes and breasts”, but always aesthetically. I like just about everything in a woman. I'm not afraid to say it, I'm not afraid to be attracted to it. I feel very confident, very comfortable in their company. I'm interested in them as human beings but I can admire them aesthetically at the same time.
- What is your vision of the nude?
The nude is the natural extension of our fascinations. Taking nudes in photography can be very revealing. Sometimes people have a problem with nudity but it's in their head. It's completely natural. Personally, as long as a person, a model feels confident with me, then I can try anything, try anything. And I think, the older I get, the more comfortable I am with this separation between the photographic experience and the physical. When I was young, I mixed the two and suddenly, by causality, I was confused by this relationship. But now, and moreover, happily married, I feel more comfortable doing nudes and pushing the limits, the standards. There is no physical element to photography, which means that a photograph can be beautiful and sexually charged as soon as a person feels free to express themselves.
- Find the Rankin suite inNormal Magazine n°2 et n°1 -
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